New York Fashion Week Recap: Day Five
Highlights from New York Fashion Week Day Five
1. Zac and Double Zac Posen
What exactly did comedienne Amy Schumer say that had actress Bella Thorne and Vanity Fair fashion director Jessica Diehl giggling profusely during Zac Posen’s runway show? “I can’t remember!” Ms. Schumer said 10 minutes later, wide eyed.
Ms. Schumer’s presence at Mr. Posen’s runway show suggests the depth of this runway magician’s reach. Mr. Posen is often overlooked by fashion insiders who fail to credit that he can garner 9,000 likes on Instagram for posting a photo of a peony. Ms. Thorne leapt to her feet and cheered as he took his bow on Monday evening at Grand Central Terminal’s Vanderbilt Hall. Ms. Schemer tweeted her thanks for being invited. Crowds billowed outside on Park Avenue.
Mr. Posen has begun designing Brooks Brothers women’s wear, and is a go-to designer for Hollywood’s red carpets. He has a secondary line, Zac Zac Posen, and his main one, Zac Posen, for which he tossed in some new tailored ensembles this season (the Brooks Bros. influence?). But his strength is in those draped and flowing gowns, and an appeal that is more than skin deep.
2. Hair-Raising Schoolgirls
Welcome to Thom Browne’s nightmare, a seasonal occurrence that either fascinates or irritates audiences, depending on their point of view. This season, his schoolgirl-protagonists’ braids literally stood on end.
Mr. Browne’s tailoring is second to none in New York. He’s a menswear designer turned to women’s wear. But the hair was more memorable than the collection on Monday, which was one amazingly embroidered suit after another, each with the shirtdress-under-the-skirt schtick. Even extraordinary workmanship becomes dull with repetition.
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If there was a connection to current events, it wasn’t apparent with the schoolhouse trick, which, lacking drama or variety, fell flat. A designer as cerebral as Mr. Browne has more to say. And do.
3. To Brooklyn (Again) With Love
Rag and Bone Spring 2016 collection Photo: Bryan R. Smith/Associated Press
Guests had to travel to Brooklyn to see Rag & Bone’s freewheeling mishmash of sport, streetwear, tomboy style, utilitarian and British tailoring on Monday night. Labels from Alexander Wang to Moncler Grenoble have drawn guests to Brooklyn in the past year.
For the trip Monday night—which caused many guests to hire cars for the journey—the designers offered ferry service, plus Brooklyn-sourced snacks once people arrived. It was a whole-Brooklyn event. The Brooklyn Youth Chorus sang with the runway show’s soundtrack, created by Radiohead’s Thom Yorke.
4. That Perfect Girl You Hated to Love
“I’m in my rose period,” said Carolina Herrera Friday as she previewed her very-pink collection, which debuted this morning. Each pink dress was more precisely perfect than the last, from feather embroidery to tulle seams. This is a hallmark of her label, clothes so delightful that one regards them as one probably did one’s high school homecoming queen—the girl with the perfect figure who dated the quarterback and drove a Porsche.
After Ms. Herrera offered a moment’s reverence of her Andy Warhol and Robert Mapplethorpe portraits, she offered a glimpse of the atelier that earned her entree to the Frick museum on Monday to show her collection, the institution’s first-ever fashion show. Surgically clean, with 10 pattern-cutters (most New York designers use one or two part-time freelancers) and department heads specializing in tailoring, draping, and gowns, her studio is more like Paris than New York.
She has a frustration: Her colors and peek-a-boo seams—connective tissues between fabric panels—may not be embraced by stores. She mimicked buyers at her Seventh Avenue showroom. “Can we have it without this [see-thru part], and in black?”
5. Mama’s Got A Brand New Shoe and Bag
Mansur Gavriel’s minimalist bucket bags were a sensation last year. Now the accessories-design duo is hoping lightning strikes twice, with a collection of playful, colorful shoes and a wider range of bags, including clutches and a new capsule collection. The presentation’s location, the Swiss Institute of Contemporary Art, was transformed to look like a pastel-colored department store, so much so that some Instagram commenters wanted to know the “store” address. The shoes came in four styles and five different heel heights.
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